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Thursday, 30 March 2017
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Home arrow TRE arrow TRE Relay

TRE Relay Print

TRE Modification


This page is about my own homemade TRE. I've named it the SSATRE, Steve's Semi Active Timing Retard Eliminator Haha. Why did I remove the ATRE? I removed it because my GPS is faulty. 3rd gear resistance has gone and is open circuit and 2nd gear goes when the engine is above 80 degrees celsius. This causes the ECU to run the neutral map whether the ATRE is connected or not. I checked the GPS readings because the bike start stumbling pretty bad in 2nd and 3rd until it was warmed up. (Probably because the resistance was coming and going until the bike was warm, then the resistance was gone and the ECU stopped switching between the neutral map and the relevant gear map.)

I was able to watch this while the bike was on the paddock stand and running it in 2nd and 3rd gears. The ATRE has a LED indicator to show if it's remapping or not. I could see initially it was remapping then the LED would flicker quickly between remap and no remap for a while then it would just show no remap. My multimeter showed it to be an open circuit which is interpreted by the ECU as neutral.


Features and operation

My TRE is semi active. This means it will not affect the neutral map, but all gears are remapped to either 5th or 6th selectable by a switch, I've also added another switch that allows the TRE to be switched on or off. Because my GPS failed I couldn't use it, so the relay in my TRE is activated by the neutral indicator which still works fine on my bike. A normal fixed TRE affects the neutral map because the ECU always thinks the bike is in the one gear. The ATRE allows the mapping of some gears to either 4th, 5th or 6th.


Building and installing of my TRE

Here are some pictures and explanations of my design and installation. First off I gathered all the components I needed. Luckily for me all of these things I needed I had lying around the garage. To go and buy these from the local Radioshack shouldn't set you back more than a few dollars. You'll only need some basic tools too. Some solder and a soldering iron might be the only items some might not have.

Components

  • 1 X 12DC miniature relay with change over contacts
  • 2 X Diodes (IN1004 or IN4004 or similar will do)
  • 2 X PCB mount single pole switches with change over contacts
  • 1 X 15k ohm resistor
  • 1 X 6.8K ohm resistor
  • 1 X Project box
  • 1 X 5 way terminal strip
  • 1 Project bread board cut down to suit the enclosure
  • Off cuts of wire and cable etc. I used and old joystick lead to run from the GPS plug to the TRE

Tools

  • Pliers
  • Knife
  • Cable Strippers
  • Screwdrivers
  • Soldering iron and solder

97 TLS

I think a 97 TLS would benefit from a TRE like any other model TLS. The 97's made more power but remember the TRE doesn't affect WOT power, so it's not a lack of restriction such as GPS timing retarding that the TRE defeats that gives the 97 more power. The reason you don't see a lot of ready made plug in TRE's for the 97 is because they used a 2 pin plug, it's the only model to use it and you still have to add a ground yourself. Every 98+ model since has used a 3 pin plug (TLS/TLR/GSXR etc). My thoughts on where some of the extra power of the 97's comes from is they run rich. Rich enough to cause rising oil level problems, rich enough to foul plugs too. Probably due to a combination of poor mapping in the 1st generation ECU's and the incorrect location of the coolant sensor in the radiator. The sensor in the radiator causes an incorrect coolant temperature to be shown t othe ECU, especially in lower ambient temperature. Later models have the sensor mounted in the thermostat housing where it should be.

Circuit Diagrams

Here are some circuit diagrams. I've added a diagram for the 1997 model that has only two wires from the GPS loom. The TRE will help 97 models if they have an updated ECU. All 97 models were recalled for an ECU upgrade.

Multiple gear selection drawings

Single gear drawings

Seeing as there is no noticeable difference between 5th and 6th gear remaps and the multiple gear selection option only adds to the complexity of the circuit, here are a couple of drawings that are single gear, simple circuits only. Of course you could substitute the resistance value for one of a value for any gear you like (Busa's and GSXR1000 owners would want 6.8K for 5th gear to defeat their speed limiters) but for my TLS, 6th gear is just fine.


Pictures and Instructions

The following pictures are the components I used, the breadboard underside showing what links I cut and a top view shows the component layout with the circuit board in the box. What isn't clear are the two diodes I fitted, they are hidden under the loom of cables. The diodes are to stop any current backfeeding into the system and to keep the neutral indicator working as per normal and to make sure the relay only comes on when it is supposed to. I mounted the relay on its side because it was too high for the depth of the enclosure.

Next I had to do what I really didn't want to do. I had to cut into the OEM wiring. My other option was to use the ATRE loom, I wasn't going to cut that up as it would have worked out to be a $200AUD loom. I cut the cable off an old worn out computer joystick to run from the GPS connector to the TRE. I just stripped some insulation off the Neutral and Earth cables but had to cut the GPS / ECU wire. I soldered the cables on and taped it all up.

Now the whole show is ready for the finishing touches and mounting and we are nearly ready to go. Some Brother P-Touch labels so I remember what is what.


Labels for the switches.

Terminals are labelled.

I mounted the TRE in the same place the ATRE was mounted. I used some velcro with double sided tape to hold it in position. I took power from the fuel pump relay again, exactly the same place where the ATRE got its power from too.


Dyno results

Well I pulled my finger out and put the TL on the dyno with the TRE on it. I set it all up did a couple of runs to check repeatability and all was OK. So I did two more runs in 4th. One with the TRE on and one with the TRE off. The results surprised me. No difference at all on the dyno. The runs looked identical. Not satisfied, because I know I can feel a difference, especially in 2nd gear, I thought I'd give the bike a couple of runs in 2nd. I've never run the bike in second on the dyno, I didn't know what the traction would be like, or whether the bike would try and launch itself off the test bed. All went OK except they were really quick runs with minimal data. It was usable data though and my program was able to graph it. Same result, no difference whether the TRE was switched on or off.

Here are a couple of poor quality (even when clicked) screen shots of the runs.


Explanation?

Thankfully the explanation by Ivan, creator of Ivan's TRE made me feel better. So in the absence of hard facts, I just have to rely on my "seat of the pants dyno" that this mod actually works. Perhaps a steady state dyno that can handle a partial throttle load would confirm the mod works

Again here's what Ivan says.

  • The TRE is a direct "plug in" installation to your bike - no cutting or splicing
  • The TRE has no effect at full throttle
  • The TRE does have an effect at throttle openings up to 1/2 in gears 1 through 4 at ANY rpm
  • The TRE will disable the speed limiter on the 2001 GSXR1000 and 2001 GSX1300R
  • The TRE does NOT affect full throttle power
  • This has been verified on the dyno as well as on the road under controlled conditions
  • The TRE has also been tested by Sport Rider Magazine, with rave reviews
  • The TRE is for "race use only"
  • The TRE does not comply with your warranty
  • The TRE does not comply with federal emission and/or safety laws.

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