This is a mod done to the main wiring harness of a TLS by zippytlsr on TLZone.net and TLPlanet.com So if you're suffering from charging problems on your TL (S or R) then give this a shot. (I've not personally done this mod, so can't really answer a lot of questions about it.)

Over to Zippy :)

(Click on any of the images for a larger view)

Well after many hours of mumbling and grumbling... Here it is. This "mod" came to me after trying to figure out why my bike would not "charge" the battery. I had originally experienced trouble re-starting my bike after it had warmed up. This issue spawned me to go checking the electrical system. Here is what I found.

• 1st. The TL charging system works marginally because of a crappy Wiring harness.
  
  
• 2nd. The Regulator/Rectifier unit-to be callled the R/R unit from here on out- CANNOT BE TESTED CORRECTLY PER THE FACTORY MANUAL. This has been discovered by many here on Tlplanet as well as others on Tlzone. It basically comes down to you having the 3 phases of AC greater than 70 volts @5k rpm going into it, and having the 14 volts coming out.. yes I said FOURTEEN VOLTS.

I spent many hours researching many threads to find this information, both here and elsewhere. Here are my results and my thanks to those that helped make this happen.

Here is a photo of my bike running, with the addition of TWO 55watt driving lights attached to it-working well.

That is with the stock wiring system.. I did this to verify my regulator was in fact working. Which it was. Only after I attached those lights AND turned on the FAN did my charging system register a deficit on my Volt meter. My voltages were 12.89 volts while at 4krpm and 13.3 at idle.. which is backward of what it should be. Hence my modification.

Here is a picture by TLDV8 showing just how the wiring harness is put together. PURE POO. Wires not large enough to carry the required current, and a really piss poor connection to join all the wires. Thank you TLDV8 for the photo.

Here is my wiring diagram of my charging harness. The FUSE MUST be used to ensure safety of you and the machine. Doing this mod bypasses the factory 30 amp blade fuse on the Starter Solenoid. So you MUST put in a fuse.

First get some good wire. My wire happens to be left overs from a mil install-it's copper coated with Silver covered with Teflon for insulation.

Then get a good in line fuse holder, I chose 30 amps just to be sure,

Then build your harness, I used 1/4" ring terminals to attach to the battery, and used the 14-16 gauge spade connectors to fit into the factory loom. I got all needed supplies at a local auto store.

After that route it accordingly, and neaten it up later.

This next shot shows my meter with the bike running at IDLE with my charging harness installed.

And here at 5000 rpm.

Heres a shot of my BRIGHT dash lights-yep some pic whoring here.

And just another picture of the general mess I made.

The part that is left disconnected is still active.. even with the key off. FYI. So i just wrapped some electrical tape around it and tucked it up under my body panel. Later in the future I may undo the wiring loom and remove it all together... OR.... cut it free and incorporate it into my modified harness to clean the whole affair up.

This mod also cures the "flickering headlights" that occurs. And if i'm right.. and I am guessing here... will also get a HOTTER spark to the plugs now that the coils have proper voltage.. therefore stopping the Fouled Plug syndrome.. at least I am hoping. I have not had the harness mod done long enough yet to actually determine that. But every little bit helps. AND this mod goes for BOTH BIKES.

PERSONS WHO DO THIS MOD DO SO AT THEIR OWN RISK TO THEMSELVES AND THEIR BIKES. AUTHOR HOLDS NO RESPONSIBLITIES WHATSOEVER, BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED, SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED, FOR AGES 8 AND UP.