Replacing Clutch Springs

Here's a short write up on changing over the clutch springs. It doesn't matter if it's a '97 - '98 TLS 5 spring unit or a '99+ with 6 springs, or a TLR. (Of course you'll have to remove the lower fairing on a TLR though.) The basics are the same for all models.

Barnett replacement springs part #

TL1000S '97 & '98 with 5 springs

• MT-15-5

TL1000S '99+ & TL1000R all, with 6 springs

• MT-12-6

You can't interchange them. The 5 spring clutch springs are longer with a larger diameter compared to the 6 spring ones.

MT-15-5 vs. MT-12-6

The following pictures are one reason why I recommend the Barnett springs. The other reason is the Barnett's actually work to help stop clutch slippage.

Barnett vs. OEM free length.
Don't buy these springs.	6000km (3700mile)The original aftermarket ones had shrunk to less than the OEM height.

Torque specs

Remember these torque specs. You don't need a lot of tension on the spring bolts or the bolts for the clutch cover. You risk snapping a head of a spring bolt if you go too tight and if you over tension the cover bolts you can warp the cover and it will leak.

Let's do it

If you leave the bike on its side stand there is no need to drain the oil, you wont lose any. Undo the clutch cover bolts and pull the cover off. Be careful not to damage the o-ring. Some of it may stick to the case and some to the cover, just gently pry it from one or the other. I've been able to use the same o-ring after removing and refitting the cover many times even though the book says you should replace it. I don't use any sealant on it either.

Next undo the clutch spring bolts. If you're only doing a change over of springs, it's just as easy to do one at a time rather than removing them all at once. Remove them all if you're going to inspect or change over the clutch plates. (For the 6 spring clutches, be sure to line the mark up on the pressure plate with the hub or the pressure plate wont sit correctly and apply the correct pressure to the plates and the clutch will slip).

Remove the springs and fit the new ones. (If you remove all the springs at once, put one bolt in and use it to pull the camset forward so you can fit the 1st spring and bolt. Once the first is in place the camset will remain forward so the others can be fitted).

Do the clutch spring set bolts up. I do them up a little at a time in a star pattern. The correct torque spec is 7.0ft/lbs. Don't over tighten them, you'll snap a head off.

This is a shot out of the manual showing the recommended pattern for tightening up the bolts

Put the o-ring in the cover, fit the cover in position and do the bolts up. Don't over-tighten them as you might warp the cover and cause it to leak. According to the manual the bolts only need to be done up to 8.0ft/lbs, but I do mine up a little under that. Now that the springs are fitted and if you have a cable operated clutch, adjust it according to the manual.Having the actuator arm at the correct angle and enough free play of the worm drive is crucial to having a clutch that operates properly.

Good luck!

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